Composition for bleaching human hair

ABSTRACT

A water-free composition for the bleaching and brightening of human hair and with a simultaneous conditioning effect comprises a) at least one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect, in particular a peroxide and/or an ammonium salt, and b) γ-oryzanol at a concentration of 0.001% to 5% by weight, calculated to the total composition.

The present invention concerns a new composition for the intensive, yetgentle bleaching and brightening of human hair.

The bleaching of human hair customarily consists of a process with thefollowing steps:

Homogenous mixing of a water-free preparation, preferably a powder,comprising at least one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect,in particular a solid peroxide salt, preferably ammonium, potassiumand/or sodium persulfate or earth alkali peroxide, with an aqueoushydrogen peroxide solution, application of this composition onto thehair, and rinsing after bleaching is completed. However, it has beenknown for some time that use of those components effective with regardto the bleaching, in particular the persulfates, especially the ammoniumpersulfate, in the requisite higher concentrations can lead to hairdamage.

Efforts have already been made to solve this problem by (partial)substitution of the persulfates, however, so far the results have notbeen satisfactory.

It has now been found, and it is the object of the present invention,that addition of γ-oryzanol to bleaching compositions comprisinganhydrous substances, in particular peroxides, as agents, surprisinglynot only achieves an improved bleaching effect without causing majorhair damage, it also improves the properties of the hair thus treated,in particular wet and dry combability, texture, volume and shine of thehair.

Object of the invention is also a process for the bleaching of humanhair with a preparation obtained by mixing a water-free composition (A),comprising at least a one compound with a bleaching or brighteningeffect, preferably a peroxide with an aqueous hydrogen peroxidecomposition (B).

This task is solved by the addition of 0.001% to 10% by weight,calculated to the total composition, of γ-oryzanol.

The use of γ-oryzanol in cosmetic compositions, in particular in hairconditioning compositions, is known per se.

EP 0 937 449 describes hair cleansing compositions comprising γ-oryzanoland one or more calcium salts. The document discloses mainly theeprotective and/or repait effect on oxidatively damaged or to be damagedhair by using hair cleasing preparations comprising γ-oryzanol togetherwith one or more calcium salts. The document does not show at all anyanhydrous bleaching and/or brightening compositions.

EP 1 074 239 discloses cleansing composition comprising γ-oryzanol, andone or more calcium salts with low metal ion concentration. The documentis solely on cleansing preparations and does not show at all anyanhydrous bleaching and/or brightening compositions.

DE 44 21 038 A1 discloses sun protection compositions comprisingγ-oryzanol.

In view of this state of the art, the improved bleaching effect providedby the addition of γ-oryzanol to bleaching compositions was not to beexpected, in particular in the event of application onto previouslydamaged hair, whereby the cosmetic properties of the hair such as gloss,texture and elasticity are also improved.

The preferred use concentrations of γ-oryzanol ranges from about 0.001%to 5%, in particular about 0.01% to 2.5%, especially preferred about0.01% to 1% by weight, calculated to the total bleaching powdercomposition (excluding the oxidation agent).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching andbrightening powders are used as dust-free products present as granulesor agglomerates.

These can, for example, be those products disclosed in EP-A 560 088,which contain an oil or a liquid wax, whereby application of this oil orwax is preferably carried out in a spraying process.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use dust-freebleaching powders prepared according to EP-A 630 643 by agglomeratingthe initially pulverulent components by spraying onto these molten waxesor C₁₀-C₁₈-fatty acid alkanolamides, or by melting the same together atincreased temperatures.

In addition to the active component, the bleaching agent compositionsalso contain the components customarily used in such compositions:

In the event the preparation is a powder, in particular inertpulverulent carrier materials, these are for example, pyrogenic silicondioxide, starch powder, etc., alkalizing agents, such as sodiummetasilicate, surface-active substances, binding agents, etc. In orderto avoid repetition, reference is made to the respective standardliterature, for example, K. Schrader, “Grundlagen und Rezepturen derKosmetika”, 2^(nd) Ed. (1989, Hüthig Buchverlag), pages 815 to 823.

Peroxides are used as active components. Useful as such are inparticular persulfates such as sodium and potassium persulfate, ammoniumpersulfate, earth alkali peroxides such as magnesium peroxide, melamineperoxide or urea peroxide or phtholimidoperoxy-hexanic acid.

The proportion of peroxides is at least 10%, preferably at least 20% toabout 80%, calculated to the total composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleachingcompositions can also comprise 0.1% to 10% by weight, calculated to thetotal composition, of one or more ammonium salts.

Suitable ammonium salts are ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogencarbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate,ammonium phosphates, ammonium nitrate, ammonium bromide, ammoniumiodide, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium molybdate, ammonium vanadate,ammonium sulfamate, ammonium citrate, ammonium salicylate, ammoniumvalerate, ammonium artrate, ammonium benzoate, ammonium acetate,ammonium formiate and ammonium lactate.

Preferred thereof are the ammonium phosphates, such as NH₄H₂PO₄,(NH₄)₂HPO₄, (NH₄)₂NaPO₄, NaNH₄HPO₄ or NH₄Na₂PO₄, ammonium chloride,ammonium sulfate and diammonium hydrogen citrate, as well as ammoniumchloride, preferably in an amount from 0.1% to 10% by weight, calculatedto the total composition.

As known from EP 609 796 A2, the ammonium compounds can also be used assole bleaching agent in respectively higher amounts.

The proportion of the bleaching or brightening compounds in totalpreferably ranges from about 5% to about 75%, in particular about 25%and about 60% by weight, in reference to the brightening and bleachingpowder.

The particle sizes of the bleaching compositions according to theinvention generally range below 1 mm, preferably below 500 microns, forexample, less than 400 microns, in particular about 25 to about 100 μm,thus ensuring excellent processing capability, i.e. mixability with anaqueous hydrogen peroxide solution prior to application onto human hair.

Application of the composition is carried out in the customary mannerknown per se. The pulverulent brightening composition is mixedhomogenously with a 6 percent to 12 percent hydrogen peroxide solution,preferably in a proportion of about one part by weight of the powder toabout 0.5 to about 4 parts, in particular about. 1 part to about 2.5parts by weight of the peroxide solution or lotion, and subsequentlyleft on the hair to process for about 10 to about 60 minutes, inparticular about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the temperature.

Application may also be carried out in a manner wherein the bleachingpowder and the hydrogen peroxide solution are mixed with a cream base,this homogenous mixture then being applied onto the hair.

The composition is preferably adjusted at such levels that uponadmixture with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, it achieves apH-value of about 8 to about 11.5, in particular between 9 and 11 in theready-to-use mixture.

The following Examples illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

a) Brightening Powder Silicon dioxide 16.27 (% by wt.) Ammonium chloride14.70 Sodium carbonate 10.00 Sodium metasilicate 2.30Phthalimidoperoxyhexanic acid 41.50 Sodium persulfate 15.20 γ-oryzanol0.10

This composition is mixed in a weight proportion of 1:2.5:2.5 with anH₂O₂ lotion b) and a cream base c): b) Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion Hydrogenperoxide 6.00 (% by wt.) Cetyl stearyl alcohol 1.70 Phosphoric acid 0.50Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.20 γ-oryzanol 0.05 Disodium hydrogen phosphate0.10 Salicylic acid 0.10 Water ad 100.00

c) Cream Base Cetyl stearyl alcohol 11.0 (% by wt.) Oleth-5 5.0 Oleicacid 2.5 Stearamide MEA 2.3 Cocoamide MEA 2.3 Sodium cetyl stearylsulfate 1.2 1.2-Propyleneglycol 1.0 1.2-Propyleneglycol stearate 0.6Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.5 Wheat protein hydrolyzate 0.9Organopolysiloxane 0.4 Panthenol 0.6 Perfume 0.4 Complexing agent 0.2Water ad 100.0

The pH-value of this mixture was 9.0.

Upon application this mixture showed an excellent, even bleaching effectwith good wet and dry combability and excellent gloss; substantial hairdamage was not apparent on strands of undamaged human hair.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol in the compositions led to a reduced, lesseven bleaching effect and reduced conditioning of the hair.

EXAMPLE 2

Bleaching Powder Kieselguhr 2.60 (% by wt.) Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 2.50 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.60 Sodium lauryl sulfate 2.50Sodium stearate 1.60 Protein hydrolyzate 0.60 Starch 1.00 Sodiumcarbonate 0.60 Sodium metasilicate 9.00 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone K90 3.20Coco fatty acid monoethanolamide 9.80 (NH₄)₂HPO₄ 2.00 Magnesium peroxide3.80 Potassium persulfate 8.00 Sodium persulfate 50.00Organopolysiloxane 1.00 γ-oryzanol 0.20

A dust-free powder is obtained, which shows good capabilities of beingmixed with a known 6% H₂O₂-solution in a weight proportion of 1:1.

The pH-value of this mixture is 9.0.

Upon application, this mixture also showed an excellent, even bleachingeffect with good wet and dry combability and excellent gloss;substantial hair damage did not appear on strands of undamaged humanhair.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol resulted in a clearly reduced bleachingeffect.

EXAMPLE 3

Dust-Free Bleaching Powder Silicon dioxide (diatomaceous earth) 3.20 (%by wt.) Silicon dioxide (pyrogenic SiO₂) 5.25 Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 3.50 Urea 2.00 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 0.80 Sodium stearate1.20 Sodium carbonate 1.00 Sodium metasilicate 6.00 Starch powder 3.50Potassium persulfate 57.00 Magnesium peroxide 4.00 Organopolysiloxane1.00 γ-oryzanol 0.05 Paraffin oil (Paraffinum perliquidum, 11.50 DAB 9)

The powder was prepared by spraying the paraffin oil onto the basicpowder mass in a fluidizing bed generator at about 20° C.

A dust-free powder is obtained, which shows good capability of beingmixed with a known 6% H₂0₂ solution in a weight proportion of 1:1.

99% of the particles had a diameter of <400 microns.

The bleaching effect and gloss of the hair are excellent with good wetand dry combability, there was no evidence of essential hair damage.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol led to a reduced and less even bleachingeffect; the hair showed a rougher texture and reduced wet and drycombability.

EXAMPLE 4

Dust-Free Bleaching Agglomerate Silicon dioxide (diatomaceous earth)3.20 (% by wt.) Silicon dioxide (pyrogenic SiO₂) 5.30 Sodiumcarboxymethyl cellulose 3.50 Urea 2.00 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 0.80Sodium stearate 1.20 Sodium carbonate 1.00 Sodium metasilicate 6.00Starch powder 4.40 Sodium persulfate 39.50 Potassium persulfate 14.02Magnesium peroxide 4.00 Cocomonoethanolamide 15.00 γ-oryzanol 0.20

The powder was prepared by heating the above mixture to a temperature of70° C. to 75° C. in a fluidizing bed generator and subsequent cooling.

A dust-free powder was obtained, which had good capability of beingmixed with a known 9% H₂O₂ solution in a weight proportion of 1:1.5.

99% of the particles had a diameter of <400 microns.

The bleaching effect achieved on the hair was even and excellent withgood wet and dry combability of the hair; substantial hair damage wasnot in evidence.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleachingeffect.

EXAMPLE 5

Dust-free Bleaching Powder Pyrogenic silica (aerosil) 4.00 (Parts bywt.) Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.70 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 4.00Tetrasodium-EDTA 2.00 Sodium stearate 1.25 Sodium carbonate 1.00Ammonium persulfate 8.00 Magnesium peroxide 10.00 Potassium persulfate44.00 Sodium metasilicate 11.50 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.50Organopolysiloxane graft copolymer 1.00 γ-oryzanol 0.15 Paraffin oil,sprayed 11.00

The powder was mixed with an aqueous 6% H₂O₂ composition in a proportionof 1:1 and the mixture was applied onto the hair. After completedprocessing, washing and drying, the hair thus treated showed good andeven bleaching with unobtrusive gloss, soft texture and good wet and drycombability.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleachingeffect.

EXAMPLE 6

Bleaching powder Silica 2.00 Hydroxyethycellulose 3.00 Tetrasodium EDTA0.20 Sodium stearate 1.30 Sodium carbonate 0.90 Ammonium persulfate18.00 Potassium persulfate 40.00 Sodium metasilicate 11.50 Sodiumlaurylsulfate 0.50 Mineral oil (Paraffinum liquidum) 9.00 γ-oryzanol0.15 Diatomaceous earth to 100.00

The powder was mixed with an aqueous 6% H₂O₂ composition in a proportionof 1:1 and the mixture was applied onto the hair. After completedprocessing, washing and drying, the hair thus treated showed good andeven bleaching with unobtrusive gloss, soft texture and good wet and drycombability.

Omission of γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleachingeffect. The hair treated with this bleaching agent was dull and did nothave any strength, elasticity.

EXAMPLE 7

Bleaching powder Silica 2.00 Starch 1.00 Hydroxyethycellulose 3.00Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium stearate 1.30 Sodium carbonate 0.90 Sodiumpersulfate 5.00 Ammonium persulfate 13.00 Potassium persulfate 40.00Sodium metasilicate 11.50 Sodium laurylsulfate 0.50 Mineral oil(Paraffinum liquidum) 9.00 γ-oryzanol 0.30 Diatomaceous earth to 100.00

The powder was mixed with an aqueous 6% H₂O₂ composition in a proportionof 1:1 and the mixture was applied onto the hair. After completedprocessing, washing and drying, the hair thus treated showed good andeven bleaching with unobtrusive gloss, soft texture and good wet and drycombability.

Omission of γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleachingeffect. The hair treated with this bleaching agent was dull and did nothave any strength, elasticity.

1. Water-free composition for the bleaching of human hair, comprising atleast one compound with bleaching or brightening effect, and γ-oryzanolat a concentration of 0.001% to 5% by weight, calculated to the totalcomposition.
 2. Composition according to claim 1 comprising γ-oryzanolat a concentration of 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, calculated to the totalcomposition.
 3. Composition according to claim 1, comprising as acompound with bleaching or brightening effect at least one peroxide. 4.Composition according to claim 1, comprising as a compound with ableaching or brightening effect at least one ammonium salt.
 5. Processfor bleaching of human hair, wherein a water-free composition (A),comprising at least one bleaching or brightening compound and γ-oryzanolat a concentration of 0.001% to 5% by weight, calculated to the totalcomposition, is first mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxidecomposition (B), and applied to the hair and after 10 to 60 minprocessing time rinsed off with water.